What you've always wanted to know about PEARLS!

     Similar to my last post, this is a post from the same past job. This one, much like the last post I shared, was also not very popular with my former boss (despite him now having his name on the by-line); because he, once again, didn't believe this post would result in any sales. But it is also one of my favorites I wrote during my time there, because I learned a lot while writing it. Again, having grown in my writing skills since its original posting, I have made small edits to the original post to correct for bad grammar, spelling errors, and poor choices in vocabulary. All research for this post and the other posts like it were done by me, but I am surely not infallible. If you find something that is inaccurate, please let me know and I will look further into it.

Originally posted Feb 9th 2018

Pearls

     Pearls have consistently been one of the most popular gemstones in history; having been documented since 2206 BCE. They are one of three birthstones for the month of June; and their beautiful, lustrous, and iridescent appearance, along with their versatility, have made them highly sought-after. So, today, I wanted to take the time to talk about these beautiful treasures of the deep.

 
Pearl Formation

 

     Many people already know the basics of how pearls are formed, but for the public at large, let’s talk about it! A pearl forms in the fleshy interior body of a mollusk (an oyster, muscle or clam) known as the mantle. An irritant enters the body of the mollusk and, as a form of defense, the mollusk secretes a coating known as nacre. While the proverbial “grain of sand” is a possible irritant, the most common irritant found in naturally occurring pearls are parasites. Layer upon layer of nacre is built up on the irritant until a pearl is formed: a process that can take years.

 

Cultured Pearls

     Cultured pearls are created in much the same way; however, they are created with the assistance of humans. Small pieces of mantle tissue or beads are placed inside the mollusk to jump start the creation process. Irritant beads can be made from a myriad of substances with mother of pearl being the most frequently used. These “seeds” or “nuclei” are the base for the pearls that will form over the next few years. Most cultured pearls take a minimum of three years to reach a quality high enough to be used in jewelry (on top of the time it takes for mollusks to reach maturity).

 

What is the difference between saltwater or freshwater cultured pearls?

     The first cultured pearls were created by Kokichi Mikimoto in Japan in 1893. Since that time, it has been discovered that there is frequently a distinct difference in quality between freshwater and saltwater cultured pearls. Freshwater cultured pearls tend to have more commonly occuring irregular shapes and subpar lustre and surface clarity. Saltwater cultured pearls have a notoriously high-quality appearance in lustre and surface clarity and more frequently appear in round or near round shapes. However, improvements in culturing and farming techniques have caused increases in the quality of freshwater cultured pearls. The highest producers of freshwater cultured pearls are currently China and the United States while many saltwater cultured pearls are named for the regions they are from:

 

Akoya: 

 

     Cultured mainly in Japan, with minor production in Korea and China. These are the original cultured pearl and are prized for their superior luster. Akoya pearls are created one-at-a-time in Pinctada Fucata oysters, a small mollusk that results in smaller round cultured pearls in various shades of white with rose, silver, or grey overtones. Akoya pearls will occasionally, though rarely, come in pinks, blues or golden colors and do not naturally come in black.

 

Tahitian: 

 

     Tahitian pearls are cultured in the French Polynesian archipelago (a collection of 118 islands) before being collected in Tahiti for export. Tahitian pearls are known for their dark colors with beautiful color iridescence. The mollusk they are created in, the Pinctada Margiritafera, secretes a naturally dark nacre, resulting in darker natural colors, such as: blue, dark green, pistachio green, chocolate, peacock, black, grey or aubergine. Tahitian pearls are larger than Akoya cultured pearls, averaging at 9-12mm (larger exist but are rare) and come in a myriad of shapes including round, semi-round, baroque, ringed, button, drop, or oval.

 

South Sea: 

 

     Australia, Indonesia, and the Philippines produce the height of pearl luxury, the South Sea pearl. South Sea pearls are created in the Pinctada Maxima; a mollusk that is frequently referred to as “the silver lipped Oyster.” South Sea pearls are the most expensive and rare pearls due to their being farmed on the open ocean, with its typhoons and natural predators posing dangers to pearl farmers. The pearls also take longer- up to five years- to form. South Sea pearls are frequently the largest cultured pearls in production, averaging between 9-17mm with larger and rarer pearls being a possibility. The most coveted colors of the South Sea pearls are golden and white with overtones of blue, green, silver and red. South Sea pearls are most frequently oblong shapes, but round South Sea pearls do rarely occur and frequently go for a high premium.

 

     Since the popularization of cultured pearls (and pearl imitations like plastic and glass) and over fishing, the frequency of naturally occurring pearls has steadily decreased. Only approximately 5% of cultured pearls reach a quality high enough for use in fine jewelry.

 

Pearl Imitations and Detection

     Since the popularization of pearls, people have tried to imitate its appearance. The use of plastic, resin, and glass have resulted in the market being overrun with a variety of pearl imitations. The most popular pearl imitation is a glass bead that has been coated in a solution made of fish scales. This coating is thin and usually temporary. The easiest detection of pearl imitations can be done by anyone without any special tools. The easiest way to detect imitation pearls is to rub it against your teeth. Imitation pearls will feel smooth and glossy when rubbed against your teeth; however, real pearls will feel gritty from the nacre.

 
Pearl Qualities

     Just like the 4 C’s of diamonds, there are different quality factors for pearls as well. Those factors are lustre, surface quality, shape, color, and size.

 

Size:

 

     Pearls are measured in millimeters and, with all other quality factors being equal, increase in value as they increase in size. Pearls come in a range of sizes most frequently from 2-16mm (depending on the mollusk) with an average of 6-9mm. The larger a pearl is, the longer it takes the form and the less likely to be without defect in shape, color, lustre, etc.

 

Surface:

 

     A pearl’s surface can be compared to a diamond’s clarity. Surface blemishes can be caused or impacted through formation or wear and tear; and, just like a flawless diamond, a perfectly smooth pearl is incredibly rare. As stated before, the larger a pearl is, the less likely a pearl is to be without surface blemishes. However, most blemishes are small and nearly invisible at arm’s length similar to a diamond’s need to be viewed under a microscope to view a diamond’s inclusions. Lustre can also help disguise blemishes making them more difficult to see.

 

Lustre:

 

     Lustre is considered by most to be the most important aspect of a pearl’s appearance. Like the brilliance of a diamond, lustre is the first quality people can see about pearls at a distance and is the hardest aspect of a pearl’s quality to recreate with imitations. Lustre is the quality of reflections from a pearl’s surface because of the crystalline structure of nacre built up on a pearl. The higher the lustre, the brighter and more defined reflections will appear in the surface of a pearl. The lower the lustre, the more blurry, smudged or uneven the reflections will appear.

 

Shape:

 

     Pearls naturally come in a variety of shapes including: round, near- round, baroque, oval, button, drop, circle, keshi and mabé.

        Round:

     As one might expect, round pearls are by far the most popular and coveted shape of pearl. Perfectly round pearls of high quality are extremely rare and therefore go for high prices, especially when paired with like quality pearls in strands.

        Near-Round (also called: semi-round or off-round):

     Because round pearls are so rare, most pearls found used in pearl strands are near-round. Near round are exactly what they sound like, pearls that are round but stray slightly from the ideal round shape.

        Oval:

     Oval pearls are a symmetrical, slightly elongated round shapes. Small oval, drop or baroque pearls can sometimes be referred to as rice pearls.

        Drop:

     Drop pearls are similar to oval pearls but are more rounded on one side over the other. The best comparison of this shape is to an egg or a pear.

        Ringed (also called: circle or cercleé):

     Ringed pearls can take the silhouette of any of the pearls listed above. But with natural ridges or grooves that circle around the pearl. There could be one, or several rings wrapped around the surface.

        Button (also called: coin)

     Button pearls take on the appearance of a round, or semi round pearl that has been flattened. They get their name because of their comparable appearance to a button or a coin. Coin pearls are a title normally reserved for a more flat pearl.

        Baroque:

     Baroque is a catchall term for any pearl that doesn’t have a shape that fits into the above categories. They are abnormally shaped without, usually, any discernable form or pattern. Some pearls are mostly uniform shapes with some minor irregularities and are therefore referred to as semi-baroque.

        Keshi:

     Keshi pearls are a unique combination of a type of pearl and a pearl shape. Keshi are nucleus-less pearls that are frequently just the byproduct of pearl production in mollusks. They are frequently small, flat and baroque in shape; similar in appearance to fruity pebbles cereal.

        Mabe:

     Mabe pearls are, like keshi pearls, a combination of shape and formation style. A mabe pearl is a pearl that formed, regardless of shape, attached to the shell of a mollusk without detaching. Mabe pearls therefore are sold either still attached to the mollusk or flat on the back where it was cut away from the shell.

 

Color:

     Pearls come in innumerable colors with a variety of overtones and iridescence. Some of the most common and popular shades are white, pink/peach, golden, black, blue, lavender, and chocolate. The iridescence and overtones can give a variety of shades to pearls as well. The most common treatments done on pearls are done as a form of changing or correcting pearl colors: bleaching, dyeing, or irradation.

        Bleaching:

     The bleaching process is used to even out the color of white pearls. While many people believe pearls to consistently come out one color, may pearls come out with blotchy colors or dark spots that can be corrected by bleaching the pearl. Pearl bleaching is a permanent treatment.

        Dyeing:

     Dyeing can happen many ways. The most common is after the pearls have been harvested from the mollusk. Frequently the pearls are prepared by being bleached white, and then dyed. Pearls are porous and therefore can result in dyed color fading over time. Dyeing can also be used to even out color in naturally colored pearls. The other form of dyeing can be done by introducing dye into the mollusk which changes the color of nacre produced, creating a colored pearl that is permanently colored. Dyeing, in some form, is relatively common and is frequently used by pearl companies to create unique or rare pearl hues.

        Irradiation:

     Irradiation is used to darken pearls. Pearls are treated with mild doses of irradiation to permanently darken their color until they almost resemble Tahitian black pearls.

 
Pearl Care

     A common saying in the jewelry industry is, “Pearls should be the last thing you put on in the morning, and the first thing you take off at night.” Because of their porosity, pearls can easily be damaged or discolored from their exposure to chemicals in makeup, hair products or perfume. Pearls, if you remember from our discussion of durability in our blog post “why are diamonds the best gemstone for an engagement ring,” pearls are very soft and fragile. The proper cleaning of pearls is very simple: never use chemicals! The best way to clean pearls is to wipe them down with a cloth that’s been dampened with ONLY water. This can be tricky with pearl jewelry that combines multiple gemstones; however, you should never try to clean these on your own. Always entrust them to a professional jeweler to ensure these pieces are well maintained.

     The most common jewelry for pearls is a pearl strand. Pearl strands require special care to ensure longevity. The best way you can ensure the longevity of a pearl strand is to have them restrung at least once per year. The silk cord that high quality pearls are strung on can gradually stretch over time and run the risk of breaking. Also, ensure the jeweler that is restringing your pearls is knotting the cord between each pearl. This is for two reasons, if the strand breaks, it decreases the risk of losing pearls, and you prevent pearls from rubbing together and damaging each other. Ideally you will also want the strand to have a French wire attached to the end of the strand at the clasp. This is a piece of wire wrapped around the strand that helps prevent the cord from unraveling or breaking at the clasp.

     For glued pearls (e.g. earrings, rings, pendants, etc) ensure that you DO NOT try any other glue than jeweler’s epoxy to secure loose pearls. Jeweler’s epoxy is the most secure while presenting the least risk of damaging a pearl. Epoxy takes approximately 48hrs to cure completely, so ensure you plan with your jewelers accordingly.

 

What are conch pearls?

     Conch pearls are a rarely occurring phenomenon, that, like pearls, are formed in mollusks; in this case, the queen conch. However, unlike pearls, they are non-nacreous. Because they are not created from nacre, the material that gives pearls their iconic iridescence, they are not considered “true pearls.” They are created when an irritant (usually broken shell) makes its way into the mollusk where a calcareous concentration forms around the irritant like how kidney stones form. The small fibrous crystals create a unique porcelain-like appearance and a flame-like shimmer that is not found in traditional pearls. Conch pearls are currently unable to be cultured.

     Conch pearls are traditionally warm tones- pinks oranges and reds- with the darker, most intense pinks being the most coveted. Conch pearls occur once in approximately every 10-15,000 queen conchs. Out of these, only 10% are considered gem quality making them very rare, popular and expensive.

 

How will I know if pearls are best for me/my partner?

     This is a fair question; however, it is a question that is impossible to answer. Like choosing clothing, cars or shoes, it is best to try them on and see if you like the way they look. So, get out there and try on pearls, see what style appeals most to you and what you think looks best on you. However, if you find yourself rough on jewelry, limit yourself to pearl necklaces or earrings!

Famous Diamonds Throughout the World

     Once upon a time, I was working for a small private jewelry design firm that shall remain nameless. During that time, I was tasked with keeping up with the website and social media accounts for promotional work of the company. Since I left, that company has kept my words on the blog but changed the byline to that of the owner. However, I truly enjoyed writing these posts and decided I would share them here on my newly updated blog to pass the hours off-ship and during a period of seemingly unlimited free-time. Having grown in my writing skills since its original posting, I have made small edits to the original post to correct for bad grammar, spelling errors, and poor choices in vocabulary. More of this is to come, but this one of my favorite entries, and was the last post I made before leaving the company. All research for this post and the other posts like it were done by me, but I am surely not infallible. If you find something that is inaccurate, please let me know and I will look further into it. However, I hope you find these posts entertaining and maybe even educational.

Originally posted Feb 20th 2018

Famous Diamonds Throughout the World

     Today we are taking a brief detour, going through the interesting world of famous diamonds. We will discuss what made them famous, specifics about the diamonds and any lore or records these diamonds may have. Diamonds set records or become famous all the time, so for the sake of this blog post, we are going to limit it to the best of the best.

 

The Golden Jubilee

     Let us start with the record holder for the largest, finished, cut, and faceted diamond in the world. This fancy yellow-brown diamond weighs a whopping 545.67 carats and was discovered in The Premier Mine in 1985. The Premier Mine, sometimes called the Cullinan Mine, is located in the Guateng province of South Africa and is the source of several famous diamonds throughout history, including multiple on our list. Gabriel Tolkowsky was commissioned by De Beers to cut the stone; a process that would take a span of two years, before being given the Papal Blessing by Pope John Paul II as well as a blessing from both The Supreme Imam and The Supreme Buddhist Patriarch in Thailand. The finished diamond was then gifted to King Bhumibol Adulyadej of Thailand on his 50th coronation anniversary. It was the king who bestowed the name “The Golden Jubilee” to a diamond that had previously only been known as “The Unnamed Brown.” The Golden Jubilee is now part of the Crown Jewellers of Thailand and does occasionally travel the world in exhibits. 

 

The Hope Diamond

     From the largest cut diamond in the world, to -arguably- the most famous diamond in history: The Hope Diamond. Known throughout the world, the Hope diamond is famous for several reasons: its history, its beautiful and incomparable color, and its “curse”

     The first known owner of the diamond (it is believed the diamond had other owners prior), Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, claimed that the rough diamond was found in the Kollur Mine in the Guntur district of Andhra Pradesh during the 17th century. The fancy blue 112-115ct triangular-shaped diamond quickly gained fame under the moniker of “The Tavernier Blue”. Around 1669, it was sold to King Louis XIV of France -along with approximately 1000 other diamonds- in exchange for approximately 147 kilograms of pure gold and a nobleman’s title for Tavernier. King Louis commissioned his court jeweler, Sieur Pitau, to recut the diamond; and the resulting 67.125ct diamond that was set in a cravat pin for the king where it became known as “The French Blue.” It was passed down and reset into other jewelry through the royal line until break-ins to the royal storehouse during the French Revolution caused the diamond to go missing.

     The first known resurgence of the diamond was briefly in 1812, although speculation abounds about who the owner was at the time. It wasn’t until 1839 that the diamond found a new purchaser in London banker Thomas Hope from whom the diamond was given its namesake. The Hope Diamond stayed in the Hope family until 1902 during which time it changed hands several times. In 1910 it fell into the hands of Pierre Cartier; who, it is believed, invented the “curse” as a marketing scheme. It was broadcast that tragic death would befall anyone who wore the diamond. The now famous 45.52ct, fancy dark greyish-blue, VS1 diamond was last owned by the late Harry Winston, who donated the diamond to the Smithsonian Institute’s National Museum of Natural History, where it can still be seen today.

 

The Pink Star

     The Hope Diamond may have been deemed priceless and will likely never go up for sale in our lifetime, but we will now talk about the stunner that recently set the record for the most expensive diamond ever sold: The Pink Star. The 59.6ct, internally flawless, and intense pink fancy colored diamond is the largest of its kind ever graded by the Gemological Institute of America. The raw diamond was found in South Africa by De Beers in only 1999; and, like The Golden Jubilee, was cut over a period of 2 years. Formerly known as The Steinmetz Pink, The Pink Star went up for auction in April of 2017 and set the record for the most expensive diamond ever sold with a bid of 71,200,00USD. The diamond is now owned by jeweler Chow Tai Fook and has been renamed the “CTF Pink Star.”

 

The Cullinan Diamonds

     The Cullinan Diamonds are a collection of nine stones that were cut from the largest piece of gem-quality rough diamond in history. The 3106.75ct rough diamond was found in the Premier Mine of South Africa (the same mine that produced the Golden Jubilee) in 1905 and was named after the founder of the mine: Sir Thomas Cullinan.

     The rough diamond was purchased by the Transvaal government as a gift to King Edward VII as “a token of the loyalty and attachment of the people of the Transvaal to His Majesty's throne and person.” King Edward VII then tasked the cutting of the diamond to the Asscher Brothers of Amsterdam. Three people worked 14 hours per day, seven days per week for 8 months to complete the 9 primary Cullinan stones, 86 minor brilliants and 9.5ct unpolished fragments. The 9 primary stones formed from the Cullinan are currently part of the Crown Jewels of England and reside in the Tower of London when not being worn.

Cullinan I- Also known as The Great Star of Africa, the Cullinan I is a pendeloque-cut brilliant (pear-shaped modification of the round brilliant cut) 545.67 carat diamond. This diamond was the largest cut diamond in the world until it was usurped by The Golden Jubilee. The diamond currently sits in the Sovereign’s Scepter but can be removed and set in a brooch with the Cullinan II.

Cullinan II- The Cullinan II is known as The Second Star of Africa and takes the shape of a cushion-shaped brilliant at 317.4 carats. The diamond is mounted in the Imperial State Crown but can be removed and worn with the Cullinan I in a brooch. The Cullinan II is still ranked in the top 10 largest diamonds in the world.

Cullinan III- The Lesser Star of Africa, as the Cullinan III is known, is a 94.4 carat pear-shaped diamond. The diamond is most frequently worn in a pendant brooch with the Cullinan IV.

Cullinan IV- Also known as The Lesser Star of Africa, this square-cut diamond weighs 63.6 carats. This diamond is most frequently worn with the Cullinan III in a brooch.

Cullinan V- The Cullinan V is an 18.8 carat heart-shaped stone that currently sits in a brooch that can be fitted onto the necklace that also holds the Cullinan VII.

Cullinan VI- The Cullinan VI is an 11.5 carat marquise-cut stone that sits in a brooch with the Cullinan VIII that can be added to the Delhi Durbar necklace that holds the Cullinan VII.

Cullinan VII- This 8.8 carat marquise-cut diamond sits as a pendant in the Delhi Durbar necklace.

Cullinan VIII- This 6.8 carat oblong-cut diamond sits in a brooch with the Cullinan VI and can be added to the Delhi Durbar necklace.

Cullinan IX- A 4.39 carat pendeloque-cut diamond, this is the smallest of the Cullinan diamonds. This diamond currently sits in a platinum ring known as The Cullinan IX Ring.

 

The Taylor-Burton Diamond

     We will now take a break from diamonds that are famous for the records they set and talk about a diamond that is famous for its significance in popular culture. Elizabeth Taylor is one of the most recognizable names in the world. She was a world-renowned beauty, a generous philanthropist, an award-winning actress, and famously had a jewelry collection that could rival royalty.

     The most famous piece of jewelry in her collection was a necklace featuring a beautiful 69.42 carat pear-shaped diamond. This beautiful diamond, found in the Premier Mine was cut by none other than Harry Winston himself. Eventually finding its way to auction, the diamond set the record for the most expensive diamond sold at auction at the time for $1,050,000. It was bought by the Cartier parents company, and was dubbed “The Cartier Diamond”… for about 24 hours. Richard Burton, Taylor’s husband on two separate occasions, had been a fierce competitor to Cartier at the auction and decided to pay $1,100,000 to buy it from them. While the name of the diamond was officially changed to “The Cartier-Burton Diamond,” it gained popular public recognition as “The Taylor-Burton Diamond” which has since become the common name. The diamond is now owned by Robert Mouawad of the Jewellers Mouawad and has since been recut to its current size of 68 carats.

 

Moussaieff Red

     After many of the diamonds we have discussed above, the triangular-cut Moussaieff Red diamond may not sound very impressive. Actually, at only 5.11 carat, this internally flawless diamond may seem positively minuscule. However, this incredible fancy colored diamond, formerly known as The Red Shield Diamond, is a stone of legend. Graded by the Gemological Institute of America as a fancy red, it currently holds the distinction of being the largest diamond of pure red coloration in existence. Very few fancy red diamonds have surfaced, and very fewer exceed the one carat mark, making the fancy red grade the rarest of all naturally occurring fancy diamond colors. The rough diamond was discovered by a Brazilian farmer in the Abaetezinho River in an area called Alto Paranalba. The diamond was purchased and cut by the William Goldberg Diamond Corporation before being purchased in 2001 or 2002 by Shlomo Moussaieff (an Israeli-born jewelry dealer in London). The diamond is still owned by Moussaieff Jewellers Ltd. but does sometimes travel on display with other famous diamonds.

 

Koh-i-Noor

     Like the Elder Wand from Harry Potter, this diamond’s bloody history is easily traceable throughout the centuries, passing from hand to hand as a result of bloody battles. The original finding of the stone is not well recorded; however, Sanskrit writings can be found as far back as 5,000 years describing the diamond.

     Originally cut down to 186 carats, it derived from the largest rough diamond of the time: approximately 793 carats. The diamond is currently part of the Crown Jewels of England, but this is heavily contested by the nation of India who feel the diamond was stolen from them and represents a great piece of Indian history and culture. The diamond was originally given to the Indian Maharaja in 1830 by the King of Afghanistan in exchange for military assistance in his quest to reclaim the throne. The Koh-i-Noor is believed to have come into the possession of British royalty as a gift from the 13-year-old Maharajah Duleep Singh. However, it is still regularly insisted by the Indian government that the diamond be returned amicably, especially as partial reparations of British colonization of the country.

     One of the most fascinating aspects of the Koh-i-Noor, like The Hope Diamond, is the belief that it is cursed. While there are many that believe that wearing the diamond will give you the power to rule, there are still others that believe wearing this stone will bring you death and misfortune. This wide-spread belief is a result of the history of death and warfare surrounding the stone throughout history. It is said, however, the diamond provides protection for any woman who wears it. Which may be why, after it was commissioned to be cut down to its current size of 105.6 carats by Prince Albert, the colorless diamond found its way into the Royal British Crown worn by his queen.

 

The Centenary Diamond

     The Centernary Diamond was only discovered in 1986 at, you guessed it, The Premier Mine! The rough was found using cutting-edge x-ray technology and was unveiled at the centennial celebration for De Beers, which is what gave the diamond its name. The task of cutting down the 599 carat rough diamond fell to Gabi Tolkowsky; and when the diamond was finally completed, it set the record for the biggest colorless and flawless finished diamond currently in existence.

     The Centenary Diamond’s most recent claim to fame is that is no one knows where it is. The last time the diamond was on display was in the Tower of London for several years. However, it has not been seen publicly since. It is believed that it may have been purchased from De Beers; however, due to their strict policy of anonymity, it is impossible to confirm this rumor. To this day, no one knows who, if anyone, owns the Centenary Diamond.